the tide at Big Rights was super high in the morning. but as the tide dropped throughout the day, the barrels started to open up.
super stoked to see Kyle Nakamoto paddle out. he caught a wave at Big Rights and then headed to Concessions. smart move because Concessions was the best i’ve ever seen it. one of the old timers that surfed out there for 40 years said “it doesn’t get any better than this.” 
Kyle on the backside power snap! there was only 4 local surfers out at Concessions all morning long. i’m pretty sure the other 50 local surfers were still in bed watching Netflix. nobody expected the water to be clean and the waves to be this good. nobody…
i’m so happy i can jump on a foil board one wave, then jump on my shortboard on the next wave and surf better than i ever did. it took 95% mental, and 5% equipment adjustments to do so. now i feel stronger than i ever did in my life!
