Point “A” to point “B.”

148

what was my mindset 33 years ago?  well, i just read this article of an interview that Bill Speck wrote back in 1990.  i talked about my dream of becoming a professional surfer.  i haven’t read this article since the day it was published so reading it again just now made me laugh.  i was a young 21 year old surfer kid searching for a path in life.  and when i found it, i never looked back!  

my coaches Tony Moniz and Ben Aipa were very instrumental in my career.  Tony use to coach me and help me pay for my entry fees for the very first contests i entered.   then Ben would also coach me and teach me so much in and out of the water.  i had the best coaches in the world that got me to where i am today.  and i am forever grateful for that!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide