Morning marathon and Golden shower

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the whole South shore beach access from Kewalo’s to Hawaii Kai was blocked off because of the Honolulu Marathon.  so today you had to improvise to get to the ocean.  we ended up parking at Ala Moana shopping center and crossed the marathon with our surfboards.

then we jumped on Mayuki and guess what?  NOBODY WAS OUT!!!  not a single soul from Bowls to Kaisers.  it felt weird!

my 2 students jumped in and found Bowls.  it’s super hard to find a spot when nobody is out, but these girls were trained well.  haha.

and omg, the waves were super glassy and perfect!  it felt surreal to surf Bowls by ourselves on a normally packed Sunday morning.

and to surf with the rainbow all morning?  omg!

i give all the marathon runners a lot of respect because that’s something i could and would never do.

then we went for an afternoon session all the way till the sunset.  look how good the waves were!

then i took my golden shower at the beach.  in bed and going to get up at 3am tomorrow.  we’re going to the North Shore!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide