omg, i wasn’t expecting Haleiwa to be this good! there weren’t too many surfers out and the waves kept on coming. it was cold, but when you get a wave like this, things warm up fast.
pretty stoked to see The Eddie Aikau invitee Aaron Gold there. he was paddling around warming up for the big wave season. the first thing he said was “how is Kimura-san?” i told him “he’s probably going crazy in Wakayama because he can’t travel. we all are going crazy!” haha.
when i was leaving Haleiwa, the waves were getting smaller but it was still super fun. only 4 surfers out on this beautiful Happy Haleiwa day!
went to the Billabong house to hang out with the boys.
and watched the action out at Pipeline/Backdoor/Off The Wall. the boys were ripping!
when Seth first stayed at the Billabong House, the Kings were Andy Irons, Taj Burrow, and Joel Parkinson. now, Seth Moniz is one of the Kings! pretty cool…
