when we went to look at Pueana Point, the waves looked fun and it wasn’t as crowded as it usually is. 
this is such a cool place to hang out. it’s like you’re in the jungle.
i saw a couple waves barrel! maybe i’ll try to get barreled on my foil. 
when i see the young boys traveling with these surfboard coffins, i reminds me of the 20 years of doing that. i’d stick 5 boards in the bag, lug it around on trains, planes, and automobiles. sometimes it wouldn’t get on the flight, sometimes it got lost, and sometimes all your boards are smashed when you open it. i’ve gotten stuff stolen, broken, and missing. so i surely don’t miss those days of traveling as professional surfer…
