today is January 1, 2022. it’s a day i don’t look back at 2021 and just look forward to the upcoming year. i have many dreams and goals that start today. my biggest goal is to keep calmer. whether i’m foiling knee high waves or 20′ waves, i just want to approach it as if it’s a children’s ride at an amusement park. i don’t want to show any emotions, and i surely don’t want to show any fear. i’m doing pretty good with that so far because i know 100% that fear is my worst enemy. 
so what am i thinking when i’m foiling waves like this? i’m singing the song “Close to You” by The Carpenters in slow motion while i’m flying in fast motion. it’s helped me keep calm when free diving deep, and it’s helped me in the most frantic moments of my life. like i said before, surfing is 95% mental and if you can control your emotions, you are at less risk of getting hurt, and you are also living in the moment. i can look back at this photo and remember every single second of that ride. i remember it with 100% clarity and there’s nothing in the world that felt better than that! 
2022 is going to be a great year. i’m going slower with work, play, and everything i do. i’m going to spend more time with family, friends, and the tight circle of friends in my life. living every moment to the fullest is the theme for me. i’m looking forward to that!
