Day 10 of 2022: when ever there is a huge North/West swell, there is a chance for the swell to wrap all the way around the island to the South Shore. and today, that was the case! it’s very rare, but when it happens, it gets really good!
and today, Bowls was the spot! it was uncrowded, perfect, and beautiful!
i was going to foil but the waves were better to surf so i went surfing. i’m pretty happy to be able to look at the waves and decide which to ride. and i love this new ride!
Daisuke-san wants to be a waterman so a waterman must be able to ride anything. he rode 5 of my surfboards and 2 of his own boards so far. if you know the basics and can keep calm, you can ride anything at anytime. that’s a true waterman! and for tomorrow, the ocean will determine where we surf and what we ride. and that’s exciting!
