Aloha Style Bread

268

so stoked to spend the past 3 weeks of every single morning sunrise surfing with Daisuke-san.  we paddle out in the dark and enjoy the first light.  you can’t beat this lifestyle…

i’ve been enjoying the first light in the ocean for half my life.  i love it because by the time 8am comes, i’m totally satisfied for the day.  every thing else after is just a bonus!  

last time we stopped by this remote outer Hawaiian island, i saw something really cool.  i was looking for my nephews and when i found them, they were helping the Uncles carry the heavy roofing materials up to the roof.  the Uncles didn’t ask them, the boys saw them doing it and just took over.  the Uncles were very grateful and i was so happy to see the boys kindness.  

then as we were about to leave, one of the Uncles came and said “hey boys, i got some homemade banana bread for you guys.”  i told the Uncle no need but he insisted.  

and it was delicious!!!  it makes me so happy to see this kind of “aloha” still happening.  thank you Uncles for teaching the boys how to give!  that’s priceless…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide