Day 22 of 2022: spent the early morning testing out a new board. Daisuke-san rode his new 5’0 successfully today. it looked really good!
i rode along the side trying to get a photo. then i almost got my face cut in half! omg!
i’ve been trying to change my surfing style a little. and the more i change it, the easier surfing becomes. it’s pretty cool how a few adjustments can make life so much easier…
gosh, i wonder how fast i’m going? it must be fast because when i fall, it hurts…
this photo popped up on my iPhone today. Asayama-san and i hanging out on Molokai. drinking a beer, having appetizers, watching the waves, and enjoying the sunset. it was a memorable evening…
