when the North shore gets really big, the swell wraps all around the island into the South shore. BUT, the ocean becomes much different. the swell has a lot of energy, the swell has a weird direction, and the swell breaks at spots that usually never break. so as i was surfing Kaiser’s yesterday, i saw surfers almost hitting the channel marker. i thought that was pretty cool so i went over to get a photo. here is my high school friend Neil heading straight for the Kaiser pole!
then right before he was about to hit it, he did a cool turn and sprayed the pole. i’ve never seen anything like this in my life.
Neil and i were laughing after. neither of us experienced something like this in our lives. and we’ve been surfing for over 40 years. its days like this i learn a lot more about the ocean. it’s never predictable….
