Patient Turtle

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the boys have been looking for a boat for a while now.  i’ve been helping them and trying to guide them in the right direction.  when ever there is one for sale, we talk it over and think it through.  of course these kids want to buy anything and everything they see, but i try to slow them down.  i keep stressing that patience is a virtue.  and when you’re patient, everything falls into place.  Seth and Benji are very close to one of their big dreams coming true…  

omg, i saw this turtle walking around in this parking lot.  

he came right up to me.  i think he was hungry.  but when he found out i didn’t have anything to feed him, he turned and walked away.

i miss shell hunting.  after all these big swells pass, i know where i’m going. 

i thought the swell was finished but i was wrong.  yesterday still had waves and it was as perfect as it can be.  this wave felt like a 10′ wave at Sunset Beach!  i was flying!  the Endless Summer continues.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide