when i got out into the ocean this morning, i had to sit back and watch the sunrise before i could even wax up my board.
it was like an oil painting. the blue sky, the orange sun, the grey clouds, the rain off Diamond Head, and the glassy calm ocean. wow!
then i jumped in and had a great time with the Uncles. pure inspiration…
i was teaching my friend how to foil today. she did it! and now it’s going to change her life forever…
hope you had a calm day…
