i arrived on the North shore in the dark and checked Backdoor. it was crowded and only a few good waves. so i got back in my car and drove 40 minutes to surf a super secret spot with nobody out.
the waves were epic! i rode my Vesso 5’10 Black Jack and it was working pretty good. paddles easy, rides fast, and works on knee high to double overhead waves. that’s a magic board!
then i went to check out Haleiwa after. very small but lots of surfers having fun out there.
then i came back to Diamond Head and the waves were perfect to longboard.
i picked up my A+ student from the airport today and drove her straight to Cliffs. she caught 14 long waves in her 1.5 hour session. from freezing cold flat waves in Japan to surfing perfect 1 minute rides in a bikini? welcome to paradise surfer girl!
