Heartbreaker

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sometimes my camera can’t focus because it’s too dark when we paddle out.  but you can imagine how beautiful it is right?

another beautiful morning in paradise.  i was in the water waiting for the call to see if the contest is on today or not.

watching beautiful rides all morning long.  then my sister called and said “the contest is on!”  i caught a wave to the beach on my foil and we headed out to Sunset Beach.

today was finals day and i was hoping Seth Moniz would shine. unfortunately, he didn’t advance.  i was heartbroken again.  i use to compete and i don’t remember me getting so depressed after losing.  so i don’t know why i feel like that when one of my Nephews loses.  but on the bright side, Seth got 2nd at Pipeline and 5th at Sunset.   that puts him at #2 in the World!   now that just brought out a smile!

had an appointment at Diamond Head this evening and i wish i had my surfboard!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide