when my friends ask me where i’ve been surfing, i tell them on the North Shore. then when they ask again, i change the subject. i don’t want to tell them exactly where i’m surfing because it’s a super secret spot. and the reason it’s still a secret spot is because i don’t tell anyone where it is. it’s usually one me out but Trinko was right behind me on this day. just the 2 of us sharing waves and laughs.
i was pretty heartbroken when Seth lost in the quarter finals at Sunset. my heart hurt so bad that i still feel sick. after he lost, the WSL interviewed him. i watched it when i got home and thought to myself “gosh, Seth is a great when he wins, and great when he loses. he shows true sportsmanship and somehow is very poise.” i can’t be more proud of this kid. 
looking back at all the photos i took of Seth, this one was the cutest. he was surfing out at Queen’s without a leash before he even learned how to swim. the only reason is he didn’t want to be left behind by his brothers and sister. i had some of the most amazing surf sessions with all 5 of the Moniz kids out there. i use to sit with my camera and just laugh all day…
