i thought it was going to be a lot bigger today so i took my shortboard to the beach. that was a mistake because the waves were perfect for the longboard.
i had the wrong board so i stayed mostly in the inside and watched the beautiful surfers girls ride all the beautiful waves.
it was pretty crowded for a small day but nobody was complaining.
this was the set of the day. good waves for everybody!
sometimes i need to take a deep breath and slow down. this was one of those times…
