long boarding is hard. surfing is harder. and being able to do both is the hardest. in my opinion, if you can ride a shortboard on one wave, then ride a longboard on the next wave without having to adjust, you are on a mentally higher level than everybody else. not too many surfers can successfully do it, but when you can, life in the ocean is 10x better.
this girl has been long boarding for the past 14 days straight. she’s very connected to the waves and everything she rides. so i tell her “ok, now ride my shortboard so i can see the level you’re at.”
she jumps on my shortboard, catches the next wave, and totally rips it! then she didn’t want to give my shortboard back! haha. after a few waves, i gave her longboard back and she surfed it better than before. i was super impressed! if you can do this, each will complement each other. then both gets easier and better. you should try it someday…
