it’s been getting lighter earlier in the morning so we’ve been going earlier. nothing beats first light!
there were a lot of surfers out this morning and the waves were super fun.
Carter getting a few before work. imagine going to work after this? no complaints for the rest of the day huh.
one of the local girls out at Bowls has been watching my student surf for the past couple years. she told me “wow, she’s a natural. how did she get so good so fast?” i told her “simple, she listens. i tell her something once and she understands it. then she does it.” when someone compliments one of my students, that makes me very happy!
omg! this guy just rode a 110′ wave and now holds the world record. isn’t Mother Nature so amazing!
