everyday this surfer girl is getting better and better. her technical level is very high, and her mental level is even higher. she’s calm, comfortable, and confident in any conditions. pretty amazing…
i saw this couple taking off on a wave and was wondering what they were going to do. 
then the guy picks up the girl and throws her upside-down in the air. omg, tandem surfing! i want to try that someday!
back in 1993, Tahitian Poto David, Hawaii’s Kaipo Jaquias, Sunny Garcia, and i were staying together for 2 weeks in Japan. we stayed in Chiba for the Marui Pro but when the waves went flat, we headed straight to Tokyo. thank goodness there weren’t cell phones, social media, and cameras around. we were curious, mischievous, and bad boys. if you crossed our path back then, i want to apologize from the bottom of my heart. we were surfer kids just being surfer kids…
