Disrespectful Surfer Girl

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after surfing North shore yesterday, today was so easy for the girls.  just connecting and flowing like usual.  each pushing the other to the limit so everybody gets better.

Scott got a super nice right!  look how perfect this wave is!

this never gets boring.  i can do this every single day for the rest of my life.

today a Japanese girl from Japan dropped in on my friend.  i asked her why did she do that and she said “i didn’t see her.”  i told her i saw you look at her behind you and still went.  see said no and completely denied it.  what she doesn’t know is i see everything in the ocean.  and what she didn’t know is i actually took a video of that whole wave.  so when i came in, we all looked at the video and it clearly shows her dropping in, looking back twice, and still riding the wave.  usually i don’t care about it but i don’t like when people from other countries come to Hawaii and act like that. it’s very disrespectful to the locals surfers.  one of the locals at Bowls said that should post the video on social media.  good idea.  haha.

anyway, if you drop in on this surfer girl that surfs this good, you will look like a fool.  and when you see the video i took, you will agree.  it’s actually embarrassing…

the tree trimmers finally showed up to cut the coconuts.  one of the guys looked at it and said “OMG!  that’s so dangerous!!!”  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide