the South swell showed up today but it wasn’t as big as everybody thought. so a lot of patient surfers, and a lot of waiting.
and a lot of traffic in the water. it was pretty dangerous. 
but the girls know how to mix in with the crowd and catch 30 waves each session. their wave knowledge has gotten to a point where they can see waves nobody else can. i sit in the inside and watch the show! i only get mad when they fall. haha.
looking back when we use to travel around the world all year round. exploring this wonderful surfing world! Tokura-san riding a Tokoro in the Philippines. can’t wait to do this again!
