Surfing Mannerism: Japan Style

163

let’s talk about surfing mannerism.  it’s something i learned by traveling around the world.  when you’re visiting or living in a country other than yours, you should respect the culture, the people, and especially the locals.  it’s a universal rule that every surfer should know.  i’ve seen visiting surfers get beaten up, chased in, their board broken, and forbidden from returning.  if you disrespect, something bad will happen to you.  it’s just a matter of time.  but at the same time, if you respect the locals, most will embrace you.

here is an example.  these are locals from Wakayama.  i call them heavy locals because if you were ever to drop in or disrespect any one of them, you are in BIG trouble!   you better run to your car, get on the next airplane, and never return.  but at the same time, they are the nicest people on earth.   these guys will never travel to another country and drop in on anyone.  and if they saw another Japanese surfer disrespecting locals anywhere in the world, they will be the first to scold you.  it’s not just mannerism, it’s common sense…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide