when ever you get a new board, you should never try it out on a junk day. you should wait until the waves are good so there are no excuses. so yes, i was waiting patiently for a day like today!
it paddled good, it felt good, i could pop up good, and it looked good. so when i took off on my first wave, i had 100% confidence that it was going to work. if i didn’t have confidence, there is no way i would even try to catch a hollow wave at Bowls like this.
right off the bottom turn, i could feel the board moving faster and a lot more responsive. that is exactly what i wanted when i ordered it from Trinx!
i was flying so fast off the top that i had to stay low and keep calm. it’s not easy when you’re flying fast like this. somehow i made this and surprised myself. i’m literally riding a waist high wave going the same speed as riding a 10′ wave. that’s the feeling i love so much…
so if you asked me how today was. i would say excellent. i got good waves, i got a magic board, and i’m a FREE bird!
