there are many of ways to get hurt in foiling and this one is the worst. it’s called the “The Taco.” so here i am on the North shore trying to surf instead of foil. 
i approach the white wash at full speed and try to smash it. i forgot the North shore is 10x more powerful than town.
then it’s right here when i can feel me leaning forward which is the worst thing to do. when you lean forward on the foil, you will fall forward and the foil will come straight up towards your face. that’s why they call it a Taco! 
OMG! my razor sharp wing just missed my head by inches. that was one of the scariest moments in a while. i actually went in after this and was so thankful i rode home in my car, and not in an ambulance.
