Gangster Bitch

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i finally had time to wash the truck!  it was so dirty but now it’s sparkling again!  my friend asked me why i washed it when i’m leaving on a trip?  i said “don’t ask.  i even use to wash it in the rain.  when it needs a wash, i simply wash it.”  right after this, it rained!  haha…

i had to dust off my passport and see if it didn’t expire.  it’s been a long 2 years…

i even forgot how to pack my boards.  haha.  one short board, one step-up, and one foil board.  i’m ready for anything.

but the first thing i’ll do when i get to bali is stop on the side of the road and buy my 30 cent breakfast.  that’s all i need before a surf.

then lunch i’ll go to a better restaurant and eat a plate like this.  this only cost $1.50.  i feel so rich in Bali!

Garut left me this note 10 years ago at my hotel in Bali and i still have it.  so i’m going to call that gangster and hopefully he can put me on great waves!   see you soon Bitch!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide