i saw something really weird yesterday morning. when the sun was rising, i saw a rainbow ring around the sun. pretty cool but pretty weird too.
from age 19 to just a few years ago, i got pretty much free unlimited surfboards from my sponsors. i’d say over a thousand free boards throughout those years. now that i look back, i was very fortunate to have amazing sponsors. and now that i have to buy surfboards with my own money, i cherish each board a lot more. that’s why these brand new ones still sit in my living room waiting for the day to be ridden. i’m in no rush…
dug up some classic photos. this was taken in Hebara in 1992 during the Marui Pro. Hawaiian Kaipo Jaquias, Tahitian Vetea “Poto” David, and i stayed together. those were such fun times in Japan. Kaipo won the contest either that year or the next and he got gifted 15 cases of beer. Kaipo didn’t drink beer so Poto and i helped him finish it all. haha…
