i was totally surprised when i arrived at Bowls this morning. the parking lot was empty! then when i looked at the waves, i understood why. it was huge! solid double overhead and very powerful! just to get out to the lineup was very challenging. but i love the challenge.
the whole ocean was moving. the energy was strong. i had my worst wipeout in 10 years. the wave picked me up, threw me over the top, and slammed me into the reef. i just covered my head, kept calm, and prayed i didn’t get hurt. that was my good morning cup of coffee…
then i went home to nap because i knew where i was going this afternoon. Big Rights was excellent! huge and empty too. big swells like today happen once a year if we’re lucky. i already got my barrels for the Summer!
today the surf was for experienced surfers only. i saw my friend Kahea on the beach and when i asked him if it was crowded, he told me “of course not. most surfers can’t even make it out.” he was absolutely right! today is the kind of day i dream of. i surfed for 4 hours, i got barreled, i got major wipeouts, and i got taught again that the ocean is greater than us…
