Drop in and Out

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there were a lot of big empty barrels at Big Rights yesterday.  i saw some that could fit your car in.  empty or full, i love watching it all…

i found another classic photo taken in Shonan, Japan.  this was about 20 years ago.  i use to hang out with Bobby Higa and we would party with the boys until the sun came up.  those were some of the greatest times of my life.

HAWAII NEWS:  two nights ago, a Japanese tourist was walking in Waikiki wearing his Rolex watch.  a man with a gun approached him, pointed the gun at him, and took his Rolex.  am i surprised?  no.  here is my travel advice for anyone traveling anywhere in the world.  “leave your expensive watches and bags at home!!!”  we live in a different world now where simple is safer…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide