i get to Bowls in the dark this morning. i was watching the waves and saw some big sets. looked a little smaller than yesterday and there were only 3 guys out. lucky me! the Hawaii news is calling these waves 10-15′. some guys out where calling it 6-8′ Hawaiian. next week some guys will probably say it was 10′ Hawaiian. which ever way you look at it, it was big enough to scare most surfers away. i’m almost 6′ tall so you can imagine how big this wave was. my mistake was riding a board that was too long. the take off was easier but pulling into the barrel was harder. 
if i had a smaller board, i could have put myself in better positions, and also slowed myself down. but with a longer board, once the rail sets, it will shoot almost too fast out of the pocket. even though i tried to slow down, i couldn’t. 
i still enjoyed the beautiful view though. i haven’t been this excited about surfing in my entire life. i wish it was like this everyday! anyway, tomorrow expect the crowd to trickle back as the swell starts to drop. one of the best Summers in Hawaii and we just got started!!!
