I MISS MY GIRLFRIEND

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when we use to dive all day long, accidents happened.  my friend Shawn cut his wrist with his knife by accident.  normally that’s guaranteed stitches at the hospital, but on the boat, we just wrap it up, and go back diving.  the emergency room can wait because diving was always more important…

after about a 100 dives spending 7 hours in the ocean, you tend to get tired.  so taking a nap on the long ride back to the harbor was always a good time to nap…

East Timor was one of the most memorable surf/dive trips in my life.  you can get barreled in the morning, then jump off the boat and hunt for dinner in the afternoon.  it was that easy.  this big fish looked like a bus underwater.  imagine this monster charging straight at you underwater?   thank goodness i had my spear…

“MY GIRLFRIEND SAID SHE’LL LEAVE ME IF I GO DIVING ONE MORE TIME…  I’M SURE GOING TO MISS HER.”

if you’re a free diver, deep down you understand what’s more important.  and usually it’s not the girlfriend.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide