as flat and as calm Bowls can be, right around the corner on the same day, it could be the total opposite. Bowls was flat, but here were 10′ swells breaking in the 500′ deep blue ocean. the wind was pushing 30mph creating these giant open ocean wind swells. and the current was pulling the opposite way of the wind so the ocean was like a washing machine. i haven’t been into the wild sea like that in a long time. it was pretty exciting…
and when you fall, don’t look down because all you will see is a dark deep blue color where giant predators hunt for turtles and seals. and that’s exactly what we look like floating around out there. i don’t wear a leash so sometimes the wind and swell is blowing your board forward as the current is pulling you back. your board can be right in front of you but will take a minute to get to. all that time knowing what can come from underneath you. haha…
but when you’re riding the swells connecting one to another, all you feel is the highest level of freedom of your life. screaming the whole way enjoying the ride. see that white water? that is from a wave that just broke in the deep blue…
near KCC at Diamond Head, there is a place called Fort Ruger Market. the poke/roast pork bowls are the best! i found my new lunch getaway!
and you have to try their pickled ogo. it reminds me of the kind my Grandma use to make. sweet, sour, and makes your mouth water…
