The Surfer: 1960 of Jose Angel

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it was super fun to get back into the ocean for a free dive.  while we were diving, we were doing deep water beach cleaning.  it’s something that soothes the mind, and also helps out planet.

if we didn’t take this fishing lead off of the ocean floor, it could have killed some coral and marine life.  anyway, it felt good giving back the very ocean that provides us with life.

the crazy thing is there is much more of this still there on the ocean floor.  i wish fishermen would be a little more responsible and clean up their mess.  i get sad seeing this every time i go to that magical place.

i want to thank Chichan for sending me this photo.  it is of my stepfather Jose Angel.  published back in 1960, this was the very first Surfer Magazine cover shot.  taken at Sunset Beach shot with 16mm stills.  i was only 6 years old when i use to play with my brothers and sister in the sand on the beach waiting for Jose to come in from Waimea Bay, Pipeline, or Sunset Beach.  i think one of the reasons why i’m so connected with the ocean is because i know Jose is still out there somewhere.  his body has never has been found, and i was always ok with that…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide