when the surf report says there will be a South Swell coming, the whole island believes. it was crazy crowded this morning with no South swell in sight…
there were just a couple sets that rolled in all morning. Hajime-san got one of them! look how smooth the conditions were!
if you have the right board, you will fly even on a little waist high waves. “a magic board will change your life…”
i went back out this afternoon and it looked like a postcard. i was looking at Diamond Head thinking “wow, i can’t believe this is my home. i better thank my Mom for giving birth to me.”
it’s been 3 long years since i surfed with Kanachan. the waves were perfect for her and so was her surf style. this is how everyone should surf if you want to look cool. knees properly bent, arms out, looking forward, and most important, big smile! good job Kanachan!
