this was back when i went to El Salvador to explore. i was hanging out with these 3 kids the whole time. none of them spoke English but we somehow communicated through surfing. that kid on the far rights name is Charlie. he lived directly in front of Punta Roca, where they just completed the WSL contest. i watched a few heats live on the internet and i swear i saw him in the background. he looked like a big kid now and i’m super thankful for him and his boys for being my bodyguards during that trip…
they ran the contest for 3 days and the waves weren’t even close to how good it can get. so i’d say i got it pretty dam good on this day with nobody out. i wish i can go back there with my magic boards and give it another shot. hopefully someday…
this is my surfboard room. i painted it light blue 15 years ago because it’s a calming color. i would go in there to exercise and admire all of my magic surfboards. but now that i’m calm, i needed a change…
DIY means “Do It Yourself.” and when it comes to my house, my Grandpa use to always do it himself so i try to follow his footsteps. i still can’t believe he built this house over 60 years ago. and he did it by himself without power tools…
so after i finished remodeling this room, i thought to myself “wow, Grandpa would be so proud.” and that made me smile because my Grandpa was the most important person in my life…
