today they were supposed to run the contest but they didn’t. so we stayed out for 3 hours! it was crowded, but competitors now days are really respectful to the Uncles. so it’s nice to finally be an Uncle. haha.
every time i paddle out, i watch how these top Hawaii professional surfers approach this wave. this is how i learn what’s possible and it makes me motivated.
Dustin Quizon has always been an underground surfer. he’s also the kind of surfer you don’t want in your heat. he’s capable of getting excellent scores everywhere he surfs. and also capable of winning!
Kai Lenny came out, caught this wave, did 5 big turns, and went in. now that is cool…
what’s more cooler is this girl mixing it up with the pro surfers out at Bowls. her surfing is getting better and better by the day!
after a much needed morning nap, we went to surf again this afternoon. omg, the waves were so good!!! Summer is in full swing and everybody’s loving it!!!
