taking photos like this is kind of tricky. i actually have to take off behind a surfer and ride the wave from behind while holding my camera straight. we’re going pretty fast so lots of things can go wrong. but the worst is if the surfer falls. if that happens, i’m in big trouble…
it’s all about trust. i trust the people i teach because they know how to keep calm. if someone was riding behind me with their surfboard and camera, i’d probably freak out and fall. haha. anyway, the reason why nobody is falling in front of me is because they don’t know i’m actually there. silence is golden…
this last swell, i was paddling out and saw one of the best empty barrels i’ve ever seen in town. it was way overhead and barreling like Backdoor. it was totally perfect and the only thing i could think of was “i wish i was in there!!!”
i could have been standing tall in that barrel. but now that i saw that one in a million wave, i’m going to look for it more often. and someday i will be standing tall in that barrel. i guarantee that.
talking about behind and backdoor, i walked down my slippery driveway and slipped and fell right on my ass. maybe it was me being so tired after a long day? maybe it was my cheap Bali slippers failed? or maybe it was i was in a rush??? it was probably all of the above. i better slow down because i haven’t slipped like that in 20 years…
