Old School and Cool

148

there were a lot of box jellyfish in the water this morning but i only found out after i sent my student out in a bikini.  so i thought that it wouldn’t be cool if i wore my wetsuit for protection.  after all, we are a team.  and luckily none of us got stung.

imagine box jellyfish everywhere and waves like this?  lots of surfers didn’t go out, but i would risk getting stung for waves like this any day.  high risk, high reward.

people wonder why i take a lot of photos of bodyboards.  it’s because i was once a bodyboarder.  and i still think the drop knee is “old school and cool!”

it’s pretty funny because we were the only ones without a wetsuit top.  all my friends that came out said “you guys are crazy!”  nothing new as i heard that many times before.

most people get stung right here when they enter the water.  so when i paddled in this morning and watched the rainbow, i thought to myself i wasn’t safe until i’m actually back on the beach.

by the afternoons, the box jellyfish either melt, or get blown off shore with the winds.  so it was time for some surf lessons.  i had a blast with the coolest family!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide