i was expecting the waves to be much smaller than yesterday but when we got out and started to see things, the waves were shoulder high and perfect! we had a dream session for 30 minutes and then the dream was over. it got smaller but still perfect for this beautiful Saturday morning in Hawaii…
just a year ago, we were still practicing the very basic fundamentals of proper surfing. now that the fundamentals are proper, things are speeding up quickly. this is when you start to feel the stoke of being a real surfer!
now we practice the most important turn, which is the bottom turn. the first bottom turn will dictate the flow for the rest of the wave. some people overlook it but if you master a good bottom turn, everything will start to flow a lot better.
and when things start to flow a lot better, you start to look like a real surfer. and this is the perfect example of that!
as we were paddling in, i was thinking about how to spend the rest of this beautiful day. i was already completely satisfied and it was still only 7am. pretty cool…
