for my very first foiling experience, Seth Moniz gave me a lesson. he brought a 8’6 SUP board and just told me “you can do it.” so we went out to see if “i can do it.”
this was my very first wave. first of all, i can’t ride a SUP board even without a foil. second, i got no instructions. and last, i had ZERO confidence. so when i popped up, the board lifted like a rocket and that scared me to death. but i kind of liked it…
this is the last thing you want to do when you’re falling. it looks like i was doing my downward dog yoga pose, but i was actually thinking to myself “ok, this sharp foil blade is going to cut me in half very soon.”
that day was one of the most embarrassing moments of my life. but i liked it because i felt like a beginner again which was very humbling…
then the 2nd time i went foiling, i ended up in the Emergency Room at Straub Hospital. even more humbled and made me want to master this dangerous sport. if i quit then, that would have been the biggest regret of my life. and that’s why i kept on pushing forward.
one month later, i felt like a brand new man. humbled, happy, and most of all, FREE!!!!
NEVER SAY NEVER…
