i knew there were going to be some big sets today but it didn’t stop us from paddling out at dark. the full moon guided us out. it’s pretty peaceful until the moon disappears from your sight in front of you. that means a HUGE wave is coming! haha.
the ocean can teach you something different everyday. what we all should do is follow her, respect her, and go with her flow. because if you fight her, you will lose.
Takeshi-san probably thinks we’re crazy. going out to surf big waves in the dark is crazy when you think about it. so welcome to the crazy club!
after practicing everyday for the past 40 days straight, you will conquer!
only 2 months of surfing for this newborn surfer. his life will never be the same. Takeshi-san will think about surfing 24 hours/day, 365 days a year. i guarantee it!
