there’s been a lot of broken boards this pasts swell. thank goodness none of ours broke. bummer for this poor guy…
if you’ve been following this girls progress, you can tell by this photo that she’s a lot better then just a week ago. because in surfing, just one week can change your life. all you need is to paddle out to Bowls when the channel is closing out with 20′ face sets, then break your leash diving under a huge freak set, then swim all the way in without your surfboard. an experience like that will either traumatize you for the rest of your life, or make you stronger and happier. in this case, stronger and happier. this is the first time i saw a smile out of this girl when flying down a head high wave. “A Magic Swell can Change your Life…”
the waves finally came down and the water cleaned up so i can see the bottom again. the crazy thing is the last swell was so powerful that the structure of the reef changed. i see different rocks in different places. some rocks that’s been in places for the past 20 years are gone, and new ones in different places. i know that for sure because this is my takeoff spot at Bowls and this white sandy hole wasn’t there before.
and here at Rockpiles where i usually catch all my waves, there is a big white rock on the reef that i’ve never seen before. pretty cool to see natural things like this…
