yesterday once more…
one of my friends saw me shoot this wave and he told me i was crazy. maybe it’s crazy, but this is the only way you can get a clear perspective of what the surfer is experiencing. i was paddling very slowly into this wave making sure the timing was perfect.
then as she passed, i took the drop on the wave lying down on my surfboard. all the time, holding up the camera. i’m dragging my 2 legs to slow myself down so i can ride inches behind her.
then as she passes, i release my legs out of the water and start to pick up speed again. this is the shot i’m looking for.
then as she passes, i ride along the entire ride documenting this precious moment for her. it’s one of the most dangerous ways of getting the shot but when you see results like this, it’s worth it!
