it’s pretty cool when people want to challenge themselves. we started off in the inside but ended up way on the outside riding the big sets. i knew this girl was going to be calm so it didn’t matter how big it was.
she rode a wave from the outside almost to the beach. it was so long that i couldn’t find her after that ride. all i saw was a somebody super far away with the biggest smile on her face. haha.
glad to surf with Hiro-san again. the last time he surfed was before the pandemic with me. so after 3 years, i was surprised to see him surfing so good. Boot Camp starting up again!
i have this wireless charger and something looked strange so i touched it. it was so HOT!!! then i picked it up and it just broke. the battery was swelling that it broke open the case. these made in china batteries are so dangerous! i’m glad it didn’t start a fire…