The Monks

190

well, the non-stop South swells finally came to an end.  this week will be small but still super fun.  i’m going to put my high performance short boards away and dust off my small waves boards.

this is one of them.  a longboard that can catch and ride practically anything.

have you ever seen monks before?   i traveled to Laos because i wanted to experience one of the most spiritual countries in the world.  i just walked around observing how the monks live their lives.  they would walk along this street at 5am in the morning before first light.  the local community would be waiting for them and gave them food and offerings.  it was very interesting.

after this they would walk up the hill towards one of the most sacred temples in the world.  i’ve never seen anything like that in my life.  so of course i followed them all day.  haha.  the most important things i remembered from that trip were the smiles, the friendliness, and the pureness.  that was the first time in my life i felt like i was living in the present.  everything felt so still, so calm, and so relaxing…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide