one thing i learned in japan was japanese surfers stick together. whether it’s in japan or in another country, they all stick together. so going to bali last year with the moniz boys, it was cool to hang out with everybody and build relationships. and when you have bali pro surfer Made as your guide, it’s ok to pull up in 4 cars full of hungry surfers anywhere in bali. if he wasn’t with us, no dam way!!!
this is a secret beach break still unknown to the world. i have to say that we scored this day. it was just us and the many of barrels! here is chigusa on one of the most perfect barreling wave i’ve ever seen.
this girl AYAKA SUZUKI is an official go-naminori blogger. of the 1,898 photos i took on that trip of the girls and boys, she got the best photo. no, not this one, one that is good enough for a cover shot.
**going through my photo library is fun. over 600,000 photos since 1980. photos that will get better with age. and photos that even a million dollars can’t buy. all priceless!
