Surfing Abunai

145

more drone shots from Todaheli.  this is Hiro-san being super calm at Bowls.

i had 2 magic red boards and now i don’t have 2 magic red boards.  people try it and never give it back.  but i understand because if i tried a magic board, i won’t give it back either.  haha.  i just ordered another one and nobody is going to take that away from me!

when i fall off of my foil, it’s pretty dramatic.  i’m trying to be calm and at the same time, trying to jump as far away so i don’t get cut.  a lot of guys have been getting hurt recently so i’m trying to get as far away as possible.

and when i land on the surface, i better be careful to land properly.  this is a very easy way to bust your eardrum.  that happens too.  so yeah, foiling is pretty dangerous.  but so is surfing because so many surfers are getting hurt recently!!!

 

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide