You are the Sunrise of My Life

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i watch the sunrise almost every morning of my life.  all are beautiful, but some are indescribable.  take this one for example.  i hiked all the way to the top of Mt. Fuji.  it’s freezing cold and i have the biggest high altitude headache of my life.  i sleep sandwiched between 30 strangers jammed into one small room.  my head is throbbing and i have to wake up to use the toilet.  i’m stepping on peoples heads, feet, and body parts.  it was exactly how my Grandparents described it, but worst.  i barely slept so i decided to go outside a little earlier than everyone else.  i sit on the top of this magical mountain freezing cold waiting for the golden moment.  and when it comes, it suddenly gets warm and my headache is gone!  i think about my Grandparents as it felt like we were watching the sunrise together.  it was probably the highlight of my life…

now every time i look at Mt. Fuji, i can remember that amazing sunrise with my Grandparents in my heart.  it was definitely my happy place…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide