everybody was so excited this morning because of this new South swell. yes, i said new. bigger, better, and a lot more energy than yesterday.
there were a lot of waves, but there were a lot of surfers too. it was all locals out at Bowls.
Uncle Byron is a really cool Uncle. i heard some crazy stories of when he was young surfing at Bowls. he was very scary!
overhead waves, light winds, and perfect conditions. and it seemed like it was getting bigger throughout the day. tomorrow is looking delicious!
Lance is like an Uncle to many, but he’s like an older Brother to me. for the past 35 years, we’ve surfed hundreds of times together all over this island. my most memorable times were out at Backdoor. everybody was scared of him so when he told me to go on some really good waves, nobody even paddled. if they did, Uncle Lance would have some words with them. so yes, i really respect this guy for his support for all those years…
