when typhoons hit Japan, the ocean comes alive. this spot is usually flat but when you have a super typhoon producing waves like this, the ocean wakes up. this spot was a little intimidating because when you’re taking off, you can hear the wave smash against the channel marker. it’s a little terrifying.
then when the wave hits the inside reef, it jacks up like Teahupo’o. i wasn’t expecting the reef to stick out of the water like that so when i saw it, i knew i was going to get hurt. i actually thought i was going to die. i went straight to the hospital after hitting that hard reef.
then on other days, you have perfect Typhoon waves that are really fun to surf. super secret spots that are still super secret till this day. i always want to thank the local boys for sharing it with me. i know it’s very special and sacred to them so i’m very appreciative. i’ll see you boys really soon!
