False Alarm

104

another false alarm South swell today.  the surf report was calling it 4-6′ but it was not even close.  i had my foil just in case and thank goodness because todays conditions were absolutely perfect for foiling.

the clouds were pretty amazing too.  you can tell that the winter season is here!

even for SUP’s and longboards, the waves were tiny.  everybody was out early waiting for the swell that was supposed to come this morning.  sorry, not this time.

all you need is an ankle size wave to fly like a bird.  i felt so free!  the waves finally came up this evening so can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide